Before dawn yesterday, we left on a road trip. The plan was to drive to Paete and then to Pagsanjan via the Teresa-Tanay-Morong road. We’d check in at some hotel in Pagsanjan, the most comfortable we could find, explore the surrounding towns and drive home on Black Saturday. It was an exciting prospect. Paete, after all, is supposed to be a cultural gem during Lent. Plus, for the first time since we had children, it was going to be our first semi-spontaneous trip (when you have children, you just tend to plan everything to the last detail). Just driving, stopping where there’s something interesting, eating in roadside restaurants that aren’t listed in those chi-chi websites that “specialize” in restaurant reviews… You know, see the countryside as it is sans the usual hype and the commercial thrust.
To make a long story short, there were no accommodations when we got to Pagsanjan. La Corona de Pagsanjan did not reopen last month as scheduled and there was just the security guard to greet us. Pagsanjan Rapids Hotel closed some two years ago. We checked out another resort in the area and we were told every room was fully booked as early as two weeks earlier. After lunch, we drove home. A little disappointed, yes, especially Sam. But we didn’t exactly come home empty handed. We all wanted to take photos and we took photos.
It was still dark when we left the house. The sun rose when we were somewhere between the towns of Tanay and Pililia. Sam exclaimed as soon as she saw a small orange ball rising beyond the mountains but only I got out of the car. I wish I could have taken a better photo. But with all those campaign posters littering both sides of the road, there was just no way to take a panoramic shot. Unless I crossed the road which isn’t really just a road but a highway with speeding trucks. So, talk about a beautiful view ruined by politicians’ faces. But then, like I said, it was a road trip to see the countryside for what it truly is — and politics is part of the countryside just as much as it is part of the city. So there.
And there’s another reality that we can’t deny. The Filipinos’ love for cockfights is very much visible in the countryside.
In Rizal province especially, there are so many scenes like the one above. Cock farms where fighting cocks are raised and sold. It’s big business around here and some of the biggest cock farms are owned by politicians. In fact, in our old neighborhood, right across the road was a cock farm. And we’d often hear gunshots fired late at night. Because fighting cocks cost thousands and thousands of pesos, some bold robbers venture inside cock farms, many of which are guarded by armed men.
As we drove farther and farther away from the city, the scenery got better. While towns and their immediate vicinities were all lined with campaign posters, in the more rural areas, everything was green and blue and simply beautiful.
The two photos above where taken at around 7.30 a.m., after a tapsi breakfast in a farm-cum-restaurant, just after we crossed the boundary to Laguna province.
Rice fields are beautiful.
Rice fields are green when before the palay matures.
As the palay nears harvest time, the golden grains turn the rice field into a sea of gold.
After harvest, the rice fields are brown with the dried remains of the palay.
At around 10.00 a.m., we entered Pansanjan via Paete. We turned right at the junction where the church is located, not knowing that we should have turned left. And we passed by a beautiful scene. Rice harvest.
The road was also lined with old houses.
Pardon the bluish tinge — the photos above and below were taken through the windshield.
Those are typical 1950s and 1960s middle and upper class family houses. The house I grew up in, which my parents built, was like that. Concrete ground floor, wooden second floor. The only difference is that the windows of our house had frosted glass instead of capiz.
After gaping at the old houses, we reached the boundary to the next town, Santa Cruz, and we realized we were heading in the wrong direction. We turned back, asked for directions, and headed to the opposite side of Pansanjan where we found out that there were no accommodations to be had.
We exited Pansanjan, passing the church once more (we didn’t go in as the church appeared new — we only visit old, old churches to marvel at the architecture) intending to go back to Paete via the town of Kalayaan where we’d have lunch at the Exotik Restaurant. We did, actually, but made a detour before that. We went to the Lake Caliraya area where we discovered something we never knew existed. But that’s another story.
All photos were taken with the Canon EOS 5D Mark II and the Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L USM lens.
bigla tuloy akong na home sick. this is my favorite drive – leave antipolo early morning and just drive south via the other side of laguna de bay all the way to lucena.
Hi, thank you very much for those beautiful pictures. I dream of going back there in RP after 33 years of being away to just drive all over. I wish I could bring our 24′ RV (recretional vehicle) so it would be easy and confortable trips.
Jay, preferably with lunch at Kamayan sa Palaisdaan Restaurant in Tayabas, noh?
Thel, you can rent a Coaster. Some services include the driver.
What?! No overnight? BOOH!!!
Still, I bet it was a great day.
What?! A cliffhanger? BOOH!!!
Hi, I googled right away what coaster is and found out it doesn’t have toilet/beds/ref/stove on board. You see, I would love to travel for one whole year from the tip of Luzon to the southern tip of Mindanao so I need a vehicle that is comfy and where I could cook American food as my husband is a kano and doesn’t eat any other kind. I would really love to visit public markets. We are both retired.
It’s so nice to drive around Laguna. I was there at Caliraya Recreation Center for a university workshop.
Wish I had brought along my camera to take pictures too.
The houses remind me of those in Baclayon, Bohol another picturesque old town but this was in the early 90s. I love the rice harvest photos – it always bring Amorsolo to mind. Kaka-homesick rin.
Too bad you couldn’t find anywhere to stay. At least, you still had a good time. How was the traffic? We were supposed to go to Batangas, with a stopover in Tagaytay, but the traffic was horrendous!! There were lots of cars, and we only moved a few meters every 30 minutes. You could see at least 5 policemen at every junction/intersection, “trafficking”, so you’ll get confused who to follow.
We decided not to go to Batangas after all, and just head over to Pansol.
Still had a great time, aside from the fact that the Lambanog we bought from the Tagaytay, didn’t even make us tipsy.
Jeng, no overnight is booh. But cliffhanger is style hahaha
Thel, there are no RV parks here. Even if you bring your RV where will you recharge everything?
Jhay, always bring a camera hehehe
Geri, stay tuned for the carabao photos.
Curious_girl, NO TRAFFIC. That’s why we chose the Teresa route. SLEX and NLEX are always bad at this time of the year.
Your roadtrip gave us another different perspective of traveling Laguna. I am intrigue with your discovery in Caliraya… anu kaya yon? Anticipating your post on that.
It’s good to give our children exposure to local travel and culture, especially we can spend longer hours with them. I am sure the expereince is memorable for your children.
For now Happy Easter to you great parents and your wonderful family.
That’s the town of Mabitac (Laguna) that’s at the boundary. I am from Laguna and your photos made me a little homesick. Although I just returned to Abu Dhabi (last night) from a weeklong vacation. I hope you had time to drop by in Exotik Restaurant in the town of Kalayaan. Nice view of the bay and hydro powerplant from there.
We did. It was crowded but we enjoyed our meal. I even have pics of the snake.
There is no problem recharging as our RV was custom made with solar power collector and there is an extra generator. What makes me sad after I inquired about bringing it over was the 100% tax that we have to pay. In this case $80K, the price we paid when it was brand new. No consideration for any depreciation because it is already 3 years old. Thanks.
100% tax? Whoa.
Maybe the Dept of Tourism can help promote/encourage local residents to open their homes as hostels or temporary accomodations for tourists or backpackers.
i miss my hometown paete laguna