For years, I had been dreaming of going to Boracay. But we kept putting it off. First, the kids were too young and the transfers from plane to land vehicle to boat to land vehicle didn’t sound like child’s play. Then, I resumed my career and all the traveling I got to do was work-related and none brought me to Boracay. Then, we bought a house and plane tickets sounded too much of a luxury. All of that is now behind us and we finally went last week.
Sure, the fine white sand on the beach didn’t scorch my feet even under the midday sun.
Sure, the sunset was picture pretty. But as our first day in Boracay drew to a close, I was more than ready to voice out my disappointment. I wasn’t impressed, I didn’t find it relaxing, I didn’t understand what the big deal was. I suppose it’s just fashionable to be seen in Boracay. It’s hip to be with the hip crowd, that sort of thing. Really, I felt no excitement at the fact that I had to jostle my way through the crowded beach.
But then again, I have to admit that it was too early at that point to judge Boracay after having seen nothing but White Beach. By dinner time, I was willing to concede that the tables on the brightly lit beach did have a charm all their own. Still, not being one to enjoy life in crowded places, I kept wishing there was more to Boracay than what I had seen so far. That wish would be granted the following day when we went island hopping.
White Beach is nothing compared to the solitude and pristine beauty of Puca Island and Crystal Cove. And the endless fashion parade on White Beach seemed silly compared to diving, gazing at the corals underneath the sea and playing among the fish.
We hired a boat on the morning of Day 2 and Speedy was mocking us the entire time because only he had a waterproof cam. Sam, Alex and I could only take photos on shore. By the way, all the photos in this entry are mine and Speedy’s; I don’t know where the girls uploaded their photos to, if they already have. Anyway, the first stop was Crystal Cove. I was happy enough to stay on the beach and ditch the cave tour.
I took photos…
Smart girls. They kept their shirts on and didn’t get burned. I was wearing a swimsuit the whole time and the skin on my arms, chest, shoulders and back is peeling as I write this entry.
Anyway, so we were on the beach of Crystal Cove and I took more photos…
Now, that’s my idea of a beach. NO CROWDS, just the sand, the sea and palm trees. Someday, I’ll build a house on a beach just like the one in the photo. 
Our friends who had gone to the park to see the caves sent someone back to tell us that it was beautiful inside and we ought to leave the beach for a while. So, okay…
True, it was beautiful. The park was on a cliff, there was a viewing deck and there were footpaths to the two caves.
Above, Alex at the foot of the stairs leading to the viewing deck.
That’s Speedy and our friend, PJ Juinio. That’s the photo that’s meant to make their boss green with envy. 
A close-up of one of the posts on the viewing deck.
Alex doesn’t like heights but there was a handrail so she just walked with the rest of us.
Sorry, no photos taken inside the cave. I didn’t go — claustrophobia. Alex doesn’t like heights; I don’t like tight enclosed spaces.
That’s Speedy after exiting Cave 2. Sam was still inside.
Between Crystal Cove and Puca Island, we did a little snorkeling. That episode is both the highlight and the disaster.
The boatmen knew exactly where to stop. The spot was marked by buoys, the water was clear and the fish (like Nemo) came up to feed on pieces of bread tossed by sightseers.
But the fish weren’t the only attraction in the middle of the sea. There were coconut vendors…
… and they were splitting the coconut husks as the waves tossed their narrow boats. Amazing! It was a very hot day and we were all thirsty. We ordered a lot of coconuts and enjoyed the sweet juice.
No meat to scoop from inside the husk — there was just juice.
And then, there were the ice cream vendors.
All the kids got excited.
It was pinipig crunch for me. I couldn’t resist. Not that I was craving for ice cream but the idea of eating ice cream bought from a vendor in the middle of the sea was simply too irresistible.
Snorkeling time. I wanted underwater photos of the fish and corals.
PJ lent me his goggles. I didn’t want to use them at first as I’ve always swum in the sea sans goggles. But the underwater view was better with goggles on. So, thank you, PJ. But, despite the goggles, taking photos wasn’t easy. The current was strong and the boatmen insisted that we don’t let go of the rope attached to the boat. Then, Sam came down into the water and I figured she’d have a better chance of taking underwater photos. But the girl, taller and with all the muscles I wish I had, took one plunge and two shots then came up, wrapped her legs around my hips and wouldn’t let go. Told you, strong current. And it’s difficult to take clear pictures if you’re too near the surface. It would have been a better idea to really dive with the proper gear. Can’t dive with those life vests. But with that current, it would have been too risky to go into the water without them, so…
By the time we climbed up the boat and took off the life vests, disaster struck. All that buko juice and ice cream, combined with the tossing of the boat and we were ready to barf. I felt the ice cream rising up to my throat. Sam had her head down and Alex looked bad. In fact, no one looked good at that point except the boatmen, Speedy and PJ. Speedy was still playing with his camera, trying to make us envious by holding it by the strap and dipping the camera in the sea.
The boat was untied from the bouys and we were off to Puca Island. The water had calmed considerably a few hundred meters from the snorkeling site but we knew the nauseous feeling wouldn’t be totally gone until our feet were on dry land.
I fell in love with Puca Island.
I have never seen a more magnificent place to spend my retirement in. I wonder if they have broadband there…
Above, our friends PJ and Mabel Juinio and their daughter Jill.
After the photo ops, I turned around and…
Darn, ain’t there a slice of paradise that no one owns yet? After taking that photo, I returned the camera inside the bag and busied myself with the vendors who swarmed all over me offering beautiful shell necklaces and bracelets. Speedy paid for three sets.
We didn’t make it back to the hotel until around 1.30 p.m.
If you’re wondering why I never mentioned food at all, well, that has already been posted in Pinoy Cook. See the Food tripping in Boracay entry.
There are a lot more photos that are worth posting but not today. Reality check. Time to cook dinner.
Lovely shots…makes me miss the Philippines for the first time!
You’re right… there’s nothing better than a white deserted beach.
Yeah, we leave the city to get away from the crowds. Kinda hard to do that by going to Boracay.
Beautiful photos Connie. I don’t know why, but it reminds me of the y tu mama tambien beach scene.
The last time I was in Boracay (2006) medyo dumadami na ang tao. Too many people. A few years back you could actually lie on the beach, have a papaya shake (no fuss for me eh), and rest. Really rest. At night you could walk around in solitude. Maybe in off-season (mga October or November) the crowds would thin out.
You’re right, Puca Beach is tops if you want solitude. Wala pa bang magtatayo ng hotel dyan?
Boca del Cielo, Michael? But my entry has no sexual undertones hehehehe
Kongkong, that was what I was thinking too. Off-season. Re Puca Island: I was thinking… that Private Property No Trespassing sign… perhaps that’s the site of a future hotel. Oh, that reminds me. I should post photos of the hotels and resorts under construction at the edge of Station 1 in Boracay. More accommodations, more people.
One of my closest friend just opened a new spa. I think it’s near station 1, I should’ve known you we’re going. I can recommend you to try her spa. World class quality sya
nakakainggit kayo. hmp!
pupunta ko ng beijing, magbubungee jump sa greatwall. hahaha, asarin ba ang sarili.
gusto ko yung picture ng mga angelfish na kita sa ibabaw ng tubig. di pa din ako nakakapunta ng boracay pero may gusto ko na ata dun sa mga bagu-bagong lugar like bangui ba yun.
may compatible bang marine case jan sa rebel xti nyo?
nga pala connie, i’m planning to buy nikon d40 soon. so far dun palang kaya i-stretch (nang todo-todo) ang budget. ayos naman yun di ba? d40 din ba yung nikon nyo or something higher?
connie ang galing nung pinoy cook mo, may language translation pa. natuwa ako sa paglalaro ng language
next time, jennie.
What’s the spa called?
Kotsengkuba, sama ko sa Great Wall hehehehe
Re cam: there is an underwater case for the 350D but haven’t found any for my 40D which is considerably larger than the 350D and 400D. Re Nikon: naku, I’ve never used a Nikon. Canon kami saka Olympus.
Re translator. Haaayy… investment ‘yan. $30 din yun hehehe
We went to Boracay last September. Not as crowded as Holy Week, I’m quite sure. But we didn’t get to island hop. Without too many people at white beach, it was fine. It was cheap too considering my wife’s a travel agent and we had Piso-fare rates on Cebu Pac.
We brought CJ along as well. She enjoyed everything, even as a 2 year old. Pero syempre pinaliguan siya ng SPF 50 na sunscreen every hour. Hehehe.
I’ve been missing a lot, I know. Never been to any of those places. I think that kind of crowd is expected during lenten week since Boracay is now known around the world. I spent my Good Friday in the church for 5 hours and came out with looots of peace and feeling ready to face the world again. BTW, your cooking website is fantastic and is now my best kept secret. I became more enthused to cook and to try new dishes. How about including meal planning or give suggestions on how to combine the dishes for breakfast, lunch and dinner? That is if you still have the time. he he he
Naku, Cebu Pacific was quite another story. Good thing that we had PAL tickets to Manila.
ms. connie did u have to arrange the island hopping trip in advance, or pwedeng doon na lang?
I haven’t been to Boracay in many years, but was surprised to hear that it’s become crowded. White Beach is a very long place, and I never felt the crowds as you described, but then perhaps Boracay is now reaching capacity. Have you heard the old story that Marcos attempted to buy the entire island back in the 1970s? I first visited Boracay in 1979 on my first travel around SE Asia, and loved the fact that the island had no electricity; everyone was give a gas lantern at night and it was very romantic, although I was alone.
dhayL,
Island hopping in Boracay is being peddled by vendors much like the private pools in Pansol. So you could just go there and hop in.
It’s as Jon says, dhayL. There seems to be a centralized system though. Whichever boatman you choose, before boarding the boat, you have to register at a mini port.
Same here, i also do not know why people are sooo in love with bora maybe just for a mere “status symbol”. Except of course, if you will go island hopping and snorkeling. Been there summer of 2001, White Beach was really crowded that we didnt enjoy it, water was also not that clean that you can even see some trashes on it especially on the seashore. Its great you still had a great vacation there!
by the way, peddling ice cream seems like a delectable idea, but i hope boatmen and tourists are conscious about not throwing plastic wrappers into the ocean.
hello, sassy lawyer! like this entry! at least you give your readers an idea about what else to do besides drowning oneself in an ocean of people at white beach. I’ve never been to boracay, and i might go with friends during the lean season. My friends say that the best time to go really is around the first quarter (before holy week) or last quarter (before Christmas) of the year when there are less tourists parading at the beach and better / more-reasonably priced hotel accommodations available.
Great that you’ve been there Connie. Too bad it was crowded. We usually go early February, it’s not crowded yet. We once went during summer…..super crowded. One consideration is Amihan and Habagat, which affect where the calm waters are, either on white beach or at the snorkeling area. Sarap ng seafood, there was a time when we were island hopping when a small fishing boat gave some freshly caught fish to our boatman. We went ashore and cooked it – sarap! I used to remember to waking up to nothing but the sound of the waves. Boracay has indeed changed, but the combination of good food, fine sand a lively night life keep me going back. Then again, it would be nice to explore other places. Maybe Bohol.
Connie, and I thought I’m one of the few who’ve never been to Boracay. Most of my family have been, in a trip with balikbayan relatives while I was busy with work. The other things that are keeping me from going are the many transportation modes to be taken before actually getting there and news reports of trash. How did the vendors in the water dispose of their trash anyway?
faye, you should see this pic. I never went swimming on White Beach. Ewww.
Sleepyhead, re trash. I sure hope not either.
Peterb, the food was good, no doubt. But Roxas City was much, much better.
Em, I really have no idea. We stuffed our ice cream wrappers in the empty coconut husks and the boatmen disposed of them when we got back.
It’s called Tirta Spa, she turned a year few weeks ago. Send me an email if you’re heading there again.
Okay, Jennie, thanks.
Hehe, that little island is only as beautiful as the first typhoon of the season with it’s 20 foot waves. =)
Hindi ako magccomment para ipatanggal pictures ko. MA, TANGGALIN MO PICTURES MO.
Makes it sound attractive around August, Chris.
Sam, ‘wag ka antipatika! DI ko na nga sinama yung mga cleavage pictures, noh?
Basta picture mo, meron.
May bijokehan ba dyan?
Just kidding. I hope one day to go there through Roro(?) and if I’ll be by myself, I’ll take along with me my bike.
Kaya pala tahimik ang blog mo on those days…
I’ve never been to Boracay. Must arrange a business trip there someday.
Sam, NOT TRUE!
Trosp, come to think of it, wala nga yata akong nakitang videoke or narinig na karaoke. Live bands lang at night.
Paul, I hope you’re thinking of going during the lean season hehehe
A quick day trip should suffice. How should I justify it, as a “scouting mission” perhaps?
LOL Ocular inspection hehehe
Jon Limjap/ms.connie, thanks for the info, i’ll keep that in mind!
I was telling my sis to go to Bohol instead for a more relaxing experience, ok din naman ang beach. Boracay is just too crowded, ala-Ibiza na.
But I love the photos, and your cleavage huh! Talaga naman.
Next time buy the spray on sunscreen so it would be easier for you to protect yourself, not too messy with the camera-wielding-hands.
No prob, dhayL.
Auee, pinapatanggal ni Sam yung pics na may cleavage hahahaha Cropped na nga mga yan, ano? LOL Re Bohol: that’s the next stop. Panglao.
Puca Island looks much, much better. I have also saw a show about Carabao Island, no crowds, only locals. One can go there from Boracay using the chopper for hire
You planning on going to Panglao? That’s where hubby’s relatives live
A few more years, Bohol will be like Boracay, full of people. Dami mga Kor****
The seaweeds on White Beach, ewwww!
I was quite amused by the “buko vendors”. About the ice cream vendors, sa Burnham Park sa Baguio, meron na ring nagtitinda ng ice cream sa middle ng lake. Another “onli in the pilipins” scenario.
The buko vendors remind me of a golf driving range at Philippine Plaza where you have to hit the golf balls towards the sea and there are I guess hired children to retrieve them. Men, these kids could swim too.
Which resort did you stay at? We’re thinking of going back to Boracay (we were there years ago — wala pang D’Mall noon) and would be interested to hear what you thought of the place where you stayed. Panglao is your next stop? We enjoyed Panglao Island Nature Resort. Alona Palm Beach Resort was fine too. Basta maganda talaga ang Pilipinas.
Julie, yes, that’s the next target local place to visit.
Ting, oh yes, only in the Philippines. Speedy and I were just talking about it and he said it’s business after all. Hand it to Pinoys to be where profits are for the taking.
Angel, at La Carmela de Boracay. It’s okay (2 double beds, aircon, cable, T&B, veranda for smoking) except that the food in the coffee shop is so forgettable.
hi ms connie, this is a late comment to an old post, but I hope that you’d be interested to read and maybe write about another aspect of Boracay, involving the Ati people who were among the island’s original settlers. i posted an article in my blog but the original article is from the multiply blog of a Hands On Manila staffer (http://donnmarcky.multiply.com/journal/item/9/Boracay_An_Island_Paradise).
You said in a recent post that you look for the human angle in any advocacy, well, this is definitely it. I do hope you’d be interested. Cheers!
Rina, I already wrote about that twice in the newspaper column.
well, obviously i missed that
can i have the links? i’d like to give them to hands on manila so they have more info; they’re putting together a program. thanks!
Rina, it’s about how natives are being displaced with all these resort building. Not specific to the Atis but the general trend about how our seas are no longer ours. You’ll have to look at the Manila Standard archives because I haven’t moved the “sassy lawyer” entries from the other domain. The date would be around a year ago.
hi! was just wondering how much does ‘island hopping’ cost?(“,) were going there this week.. thanks!
Charms, the boatmen usually start the price at P4,000.00 but keep haggling and you can bring it down to P2,000.00.
really?(“,) 2,000 is for the entire boat right? its not per head? and where do we find these boatmen?(“,) thanks!
They’re all over the beach, charms, peddling their service.
oh ok(“,) thanks! i hope we’ll enjoy bora as much as u did!
WOW!!! I enjoyed this entry so much.
Nakakainggit…you sipping the fresh coconut
juice and savoring the pinipig crunch…and Speedy
enjoying himself in the waves.
My daughter got the impression that Boracay
translates to crowd. So when she went to the Phils.
for the 1st time, she chose Pagudpud Beach and El Nido,Palawan.Maybe this will enlightened her and
perhaps visit Boracay in the future.
Emy, it is crowded in Boracay. That’s why the only part of our 3-day stay there that I enjoyed was the island hopping. Kept us away from the crowds.